It was like DOH-TOH thru da middle of da beach..... Nukin offshores.... every wave a lift off.... I packed a beastly barrel n traveled a good ways only to get brutally pinched comin out.... think I mighta stressed it then???? But I had to head in cuz I was late 4 work n got a monster truck inner bar triple up mutant that went Kavorkian on me. I caught my outside rail in it’s guts on da air drop n went down exceptionally hard..... like the Mavs hard..... no kidding..... then surfaced in a class 5 cauldron of current in front of 3 more n the last one was the worst.... DOH, but like 3 waves gathered into one by da high tide conveyer belt. Thing squared off like a Chopes slab directly on me n I just grabbed my ankles n literally got blown up like Andrew Cotton at Nazare...... bell rung n board broke...... made it to work n just tryin to regroup.... no one here understands..... my wife n kids don’t understand..... today, as I stare blankly at my broken spear, i don’t even understand. But tomorrow there will be a vendetta sesh!
Together with:
